the sides are statuettes of SS. Peter and Paul of the 12th century. On the
right the chapel of St. Helena (to which ladies are admitted on 20th March
only). On the vaulting are fine Mosaics, after Bald. Peruzzi ( 1508),
representing the Four Evangelists; in the centre, Christ; in the arch
over the entrance, on the left St. Helena, right St. Sylvester; over the
altar, on the left St. Peter, on the right St. Paul. The body of the
altar-statue of St. Helena belonged to an ancient statue resembling the
Barberini Juno in the Vatican (p. 396), with a cross instead of the sceptre
in the right hand, and a nail of the cross instead of the vase in the
left. The head also is modern (17th cent.).
Between this church and the Caserma (barracks) mentioned on
p. 213 is an apse with arched windows and the beginning of ad-
joining walls, which is perhaps a relic of the Sessorium (p. 213).
From Santa Croce to the Lateran is a walk of 5 min. (p. 354).
e. From Santa Maria Maggiore to the Forum Romanum.
The Via Cavour (p. 216) is the most direct route from Santa
Maria Maggiore to the Forum Romanum. We follow the small
Via Santa Prassede, leading to the S. from the Piazza Santa Maria
Maggiore (p. 206), in which is a side-entrance to the church of —
Santa Prassēde (Pl. II, 26), mentioned as early as 491,
erected by Paschalis I. in 822, and dedicated to St. Praxedis, the
daughter of St. Pudens with whom Peter lodged at Rome (p. 205).
It was restored about 1450 by Nicholas V., again in 1832, and finally
(though not very successfully) in 1869. — This is the 'St. Praxed's
Church' of Browning, at which the bishop ordered his tomb.
Interior. The nave is separated from the aisles by 16 granite
columns (six others, bearing arches, having been replaced by piers).
The Mosaics (9th cent.; p. lxiii) deserve notice: on the triumphal
arch the New Jerusalem guarded by angels, Christ in the centre,
with angels on each side; on the arch of the tribune the Lamb, at
the sides the seven candlesticks and the symbols of the Evangelists;
lower down the twenty-four elders (in order to follow the curve of
the arch the arms of the foremost elders in the middle and upper
rows gradually increase in length); in the round part of the apse,
Christ surrounded with saints (on the right Paul, Praxedis, and
Pope Paschalis with the church; on the left Peter, Pudentiana, and
Zeno). On either side of the tribune are galleries.
Right Aisle. The 3rd chapel is the Chapel of St. Zeno (the
sacristan opens the door when desired). At the entrance are
two columns of black granite with antique entablature. Above
are mosaics (9th cent.): Christ and the Apostles, the Madonna
and eight holy women; the figures of the two popes, to the right
and left below, are additions probably of the 13th century. On
the vaulting in the interior, a medallion with the head of Christ,
supported by four angels. Above the altar a Madonna between
SS. Praxedis and Pudentiana. The niche to the right contains a